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As we pulled the anchor and cruised out of the bay the sun was
breaking out and it looked like our
sunny summer weather was returning.
We only moved a few miles to the North to
Tenedos
Bay
.
On the way into the bay we stopped at a very deep area and put
our shrimp pot baited
with gourmet cat food down in about 430’ of water.
The
bay had several boats in it all ready so we had to anchor in about 75’
of water, a little deeper then we would have liked but ok in such
a protected harbor. Once we
had tied back to the beach and settled in the kids all wanted to walk up
to the lake for a look around. As we walked on the trail up to the lake
we could hear several groups of people enjoying the many pools in the
stream that comes out of the lake. The
Lake
has a large log jam that you
either need to go over or around to go swimming in the lake.
The kids decided to just play on the logs for a while and then
hike back down the trail. Once
back on the boat I got Peter to help me shuck a
few Oysters and we
cooked up Oysters and Steamer Clams for an appetizer during our happy
hour. After dinner Karla and
I took a ride all around the harbor, it was fun to explorer all the
little nooks and protected areas that were available for boaters to
anchor in. After a big
breakfast in the morning it was time to go gather up the Shrimp pot.
The water is very deep so we took both of our tenders out and I
installed a small pulley on a line at the bow of my Whaler, we ran the
line through the pulley and tied it off to the Nelsons tender.
As they pulled away from us the pot was pulled from the bottom
and up to the bow of my Whaler. As
the pot broke the surface the kids were squealing, the pot was just
crawling with Jumbo Shrimp! We
lifted the pot aboard and as I carefully coiled our line to keep it from
getting tangled the kids moved the shrimp from the pot to the bucket.
Squirrel
Cove
When
we got back to the boats the kids reported that we had caught 64 Jumbo
Shrimp! Today’s trip to Squirrel Cove would be just over 10
miles, the sun was out and it was a beautiful afternoon cruise past
Mink
Island
and Refuge Cove to the very popular anchorage at Squirrel Cove. As
soon as we got the anchor down the kids started to get out the air
mattresses and rafts to inflate with the compressor. As the kids
paddled away toward the rapids with their fleet of inflatable toys we
gathered up some refreshments and followed in the Whaler. The
Rapids at Squirrel Cove are a result of the water flowing in and out of
a large saltwater lagoon. In that the tide was high the water
was swiftly flowing into the lagoon. The kids catch the current
and ride the flow through the rapids and end up in the lagoon.
They then paddle over to the beach and walk back to the bay over the
rocks to do it all again. This is the kind of enchanted place
where memories are made that last a lifetime. Allen took the
tender over to the floating bakery and placed our order for fresh
cinnamon rolls to be picked up in the morning. Karla and I
prepared a Seafood Feast of Shrimp, Oysters and Steamer Clams; Joke
cooked up a couple of pizzas on the Barbecue for the kids.
Our
plan for the next day was to head North up the East side of
Cortes
Island
to the Teakeren Arm where there is a wonderful waterfall and a
Lake
to swim in. The only problem with this site is that there is very
little shallow water that one can anchor in, the water is deep and the
bottom is rock. We pulled up right in front of the waterfall and
anchored in 90’ of water. With 200’ of chain out we settled in
about 50’ off the rock wall. The wind was steady at about 5
knots out of the South. I took everyone over to the little park access
dock in the Whaler so that they could hike up to the
Lake
and then I returned to the boat to keep an eye on the boats.
After about an hour of peace and quite on the boat by myself I heard my
name, the kids were calling from the rock wall at the top of the
waterfall. It was so quite I could hear them as clear as if they
were with me on the boat. I picked everyone up at the dock and we
returned to the boats to continue our trip up and around
Cortes
Island
. At the North end of
Cortes
Island
we turned South down the channel between
Read
Island
and
Cortes. Our destination was
Heriot
Bay
on
Quadra
Island
. We were picking up my parents at the Heriot Bay Marina, they had
driven their car up from
Seattle
WA
by taking two rides on the BC ferries. We got some laundry done at
the Heriot Inn and picked up some fresh groceries at the Island Market
just a short walk up the hill. The Island Market has a small truck
that will deliver you and your groceries back down to your boat in the
marina. As long as it was handy we moved over to the fuel dock and
topped off our tanks before moving down into Drew harbor behind
Rebecca
Spit
Provincial
Park
to anchor for the night. We spent another comfortable night on the
anchor and departed mid morning for a 12.5 mile run North up the East
side of
Quadra
Island
to the
Octopus
Islands
Marine
Park
. In order to get there we had to go through the
Surge
Narrows
at slack water. This is a tight little area among a group of
islands called the Settlers Group, the channel is deep and well charted
but should be transited at or near slack water by vessels with limited
maneuverability. The
Octopus
Islands
Marine
Park
is a group of about 12 islands
that form many little bays and nooks that boats can anchor in.
Since you have to transit an area of rapids no matter witch way you
approach this area there are fewer boats then you
might
expect. What we like most about this area is the sense of
isolation and the plentiful seafood and wildlife. There are
Eagles, Deer, Seals as well as Oysters, Clams, Crab and Shrimp. It
is a area where it is very easy to see that their has been very little
change in the last several hundred years.
After two wonderful days at the
Octopus
Island
Marine
Park
we returned to
Heriot
Bay
to drop off my parents and my oldest daughter Elizabeth so that they
could return to
Seattle
. We spent another night on the anchor behind Rebecca Spit and did
some clam digging along the channel side of the Spit. We decided
that we were ready to go to a marina for a night so we called and got
reservations at Gorge Marina on
Cortes
Island
. Our trip to Gorge Marina took us East across the Sutil Channel
toward
Whale
Town
on
Cortes
Island
. Just South of Whale Town we
passed through a tiny little channel
called Uganda Passage at the North tip of
Marina
Island
. The passage is will marked but has several turns in it that you
need to pay attention to. After passing several small islets we
turned North into the dramatic entrance of
Gorge
Harbor
, the high rock walls rise straight up from the sides of the channel
that is about 200’ wide as you pass into the harbor. The harbor
has several aquaculture operations as well as the
Marina
and plenty of area for anchorage. We got our boats secured at the
Gorge Marina and connected to shorepower for the first time in two
weeks.
Roscoe
Bay
It was really nice to step off onto the dock and walk around the resort
grounds whenever you felt like it. The facility is very well kept
and has a good store and laundry room. We made reservations at the
Float House Restaurant for dinner and were treated to one of the best
prepared and presented meals we have ever had. It was truly a
great meal in an exquisite setting. At mid-morning the following
day we left
Gorge
Harbor
and
headed
over to one of our all time favorite spots
Roscoe
Bay
. This bay is on the East side of
West Redonda
just North of Homfray Channel. Roscoe bay has a drying sandbar at
its entrance that requires you to pay attention to the tide in order to
assure that there is adequate water to enter or exit the bay. We
waited just outside the entrance for about a half-hour before we passed
over the sandbar and into the anchorage. Their were quite a few
boats in the bay so we went way back into the bay and anchored in 20’
of water and tied back to the bank. This bay is sorunded by high
wooded banks and often is so still that the surface is smooth as a
mirror. At the head of the bay are a couple of improved campsites
with fire pits and an outhouse. Up a short trail is
Black
Lake
with easy access off of the rock bank to swim in the fresh clear water.
We stayed on for two nights at Roscoe bay and then moved just 7 miles up
the channel to
Walsh
Cove
Marine
Park
.
When we arrived the wind was blowing out of the North so it was a bit of
a challenge
to anchor and then run a line to the beach. We ended up using the
Whaler to help push the Lady Karla up wind as the all hands pulled on
the shoreline to get the boat into position. Once we were secured
and settled in we all went exploring around the reefs and protection
islands of this great little cove. The wind settled down in the
evening and we had a very comfortable night.
In the morning we continued North up the channel to Dean Point and then
West in Pryce Channel past Raza Island to Big Bay Resort on Stuart
Island. We were making this little side trip to Big Bay to pick up
our 17’ Whaler that had broken down there a week earlier during a
morning fishing trip. In order to get into
Big
Bay
from the South you need to go through the Yuculat Rapids and pass
Whirlpool point. The currents in this area can run in excess of 10 knots
and often create large whirlpools during the maximum stage of the tide.
We had to go in to the bay on slack water and then wait for 5 hours to
catch the next slack water to exit the bay traveling South. We
then turned East through the “Hole in the Wall” a very narrow
channel between
Senora
Island
and
Maurelle
Island
.
This
channel has very high rock walls on both sides as we traveled West
through and channel the wind increased to about 40 miles per hour.
Again we needed to catch the slack water at the narrow West end of the
Hole in the Wall. Their was minimal current as we passed through
the narrows and turned North toward our destination
Owen
Bay
. We had one more rapids to pass through to get to
Owen
Bay
, as we approached the Upper Rapids our fourth area of rapids for the
day our luck was running out. The current here was building and we
could see whirlpools developing in the channel ahead of us.
"It's
Been A Lovely Cruise..."
We were traveling at close to 10 knots through the water and only 4
knots over the ground. We kept pushing North toward Grant Island
on the East side of the channel and turned into the protection of Owen
bay, As we
pulled into the bay an checked out the recommended anchorage
on the North side of the bay I realized that we were going to spend our
last night in the Desolation Sound area anchored all alone with only our traveling partners along tied side. We all gathered after dinner
in the pilothouse of the Lady Karla to see the slide show of all of our
digital pictures from the three weeks we had spent cruising together.
The next morning we again headed East along
Quadra
Island
to Granite Point and the intersection with the Discovery Channel.
Here we turned South and traveled through the Semore Narrows to the town
of Campbell River where we had a moorage reservation at the Discovery
Harbor Marina. This was where we would end our Summer trip aboard
the Lady Karla and drive home to Kent Washington. We turned the
boat over to our long time friends Thom and Debbie Davis. They
would spend a mini vacation together bringing the boat back into the
United States
and then down the Sound to
Seattle.
For Karla and I this was a trip of a lifetime with our good friends the
Nelsons and our teenage children. We knew from the beginning that
this may well be the last trip of this length that we would get to take
with our daughters as they get busy with jobs and their college
education’s.
Smooth
Sailing!
Rob,
Karla, Elizabeth and Emily
Rob,
Karla, Elizabeth and Emily----Thanks a million for the article! It is
outstanding...
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